Between Rome and New York

October 23, 2008

Mikhael Subotzky talks to his fellow wanderers.

On the eve of an American election that affects all subjects of its faux-empire, I had to travel to New York for a day. In order to do this, I first had to travel from the provinces of Italy to Rome – center of the superpower of its time. On the train, I thought of what it would have been like to travel to Rome at the height of its power, or, perhaps, at the moment of its decline; very different from a flight to New York in these times.

With this in mind, on the train I took some photographs and spoke to some of the passengers about America. 16 year-old Guilia Franchitti was a part of a raucous group of school kids who loved the attentions of my camera in between their flirtations and meticulous fingernail polish routines. “I wish that Obama can win because he has a really good family and I don’t like how McCain speaks after people,” she said. Does the economic crisis affect her? “No. We don’t care. I don’t understand those things.”

I couldn’t speak to most of the Italian passengers because of the language differences. I came across a senior State Judge of Missouri, David Darnold, his wife Donna, and their friend Mary Reinert. Mary said that these elections were more interesting then most. “It’s a very clear choice – not so much on issues but on old school versus new, the future vs the past.” Donna interrupted, saying, “I wish I’d brought my pens! I have three Obama pens and I would have given you one!” I expressed my regret. “He’s going to New York, he can get one there!” How is it to be in Italy in the lead-up to the election? “I’ve read one USA Today. But truly, I don’t think it has any impact that we have been here. We are very tired of all the political ads, we’re ready for the election; we want it to get on with it.”

And how was their trip affected by the financial crisis? “As long as our ATM’s and credit cards work, we’re not worried. We had our tickets and our hotels booked already, and if we get home and we’re broke, there’s nothing we can do! We’ve been living in the golden age in the U.S.A., and we might not see it again for a long time. I think our children and our grandchildren may not live like we lived. Every great nation that has fallen has fallen from within, and we’ve done certainly done some falling recently!”

Helen and Bernard were also on holiday in Italy from their home in Atlanta, Georgia. “We’re going to be back for the elections, but we’re split,” she said. “He’s McCain and I’m Obama. 41 years of marriage and it’s always the same. I read, he doesn’t. It certainly makes life more interesting. We are staggered by the conversations we have. We have talked to Germans, Austrians, Italians. They all follow our elections, but we know nothing about theirs! It’s been very good for my husband to be away from America during the economic crisis. If he was at home he would be watching Fox News all the time – watching the stock markets. So being here, he’s more relaxed and gotten more of a world view. He’s a Fox and CNN addict.” What will he say if Obama wins? “It’s only four years!” Bernard said. “Yes, and I’m moving to Europe!” What would she say if McCain won? “She won’t like it. She will learn to like it! She will say ‘thank you for the tax cuts.’ ”

Helen interrupted: “I’ve always believed that everybody needs enough money to survive, to put basic bread on the table. And I have no problem if those of us who have more are paying for that.” Did Bernard disagree with that? “No, I actually agree, but I’m still McCain – I just think that he is stronger on the terrorism issue.”

In the shuttle to the airport, I met Larry Sage who lives in Texas. “I was telling some of my friends on the cruise, it’s so nice to be here and pretend nothing is happening. It’s too bad that so many bad loans were made – that’s how it all started. But I deal in this stuff too – I own a motor home park. I deal and sell and finance mobile homes to those who can’t get loans to buy houses.” So was business good for him when it was bad for everybody else? “My business hasn’t changed much – there’s always people who can’t buy houses.”

“I’ve been for Obama from the start. But I can’t believe it’s going to be such a close election. I don’t know how anybody can even think about voting McCain. But I think it’s about race. There are people in America who are still fighting the Civil War. But I’ve read Obama’s books, and I like the way he thinks.”

The second chapter of this little story came to an abrupt end aboard American Airlines flight 235 from Rome to New York.

“Excuse me sir, you’re not allowed to do that.”
“I’m not allowed to do what?”
“Take pictures on board. It’s FAR regulations.”
“No it’s not. People take pictures on flights all the time.”
“Not since 2001 they don’t. If you don’t comply, I am going to get somebody to meet you on the ground and escort you off this flight.”
“O.K., I’ll stop, but I want to see a copy of those regulations.”

Five minutes later she came to my seat. “O.K., so here it is, you are allowed to take pictures of yourself and your family, but nothing else.” She handed me the in-flight magazine and pointed to the last paragraph of small print on page 90.

“Use of still and video cameras, film or digital , is permitted only for recording personal events. Recording of airline personal, equipment, or procedures is strictly prohibited.”

I closed the magazine. It is titled “American Way,” and the girl on the cover stares back at me benignly, her short red dress cut against the lush green grass that she lies on. “Coming to America: Native Ukrainian Mila Kunis finds greener pastures in the United States.”