Baghdad

October 14, 2008

Donovan Wylie is living in a lorry container in the Green Zone.

I have arrived safely in Baghdad, or rather the Green Zone. 

I was met at passport control by “my” South African bodyguard, and after paper work was done, taken to a heavily fortified Jeep, given a flak jacket and off we went. We had two other vehicles, one in front and one behind, guiding us towards the Green Zone (IZ). It was all very military in execution, communication between the vehicles was constant, every detail of what the drivers saw was constantly being relayed over the radio.

The journey time was about half an hour, and would have been much shorter if not for the relentless series of check points – which is really what makes the road safe. Several months ago this road – “Road Irish,” in military terms – was considered the most dangerous road in the world, with roadside bombs hitting, on average, every 18 minutes. Now the road is so heavily fortified that it is considerably safer.

The road is sort of like a concrete tunnel, this road is essential for Iraq's economic progress, hence the huge military build-up. I felt that my security “team” provided more access than actual protection, given how protected the area is, and we were waved through at every stop. Still, at various stages, I was told where the panic button was, and what I should do if something happened – basically stay in the car. Interestingly, the panic button immediately calls for air support!

At no point did I feel in danger, I was too busy just looking out of the window and absorbing the sheer level of defense. The security team obviously knew the road had its pressure points; you could tell because they would suddenly finger their weapons. The check points themselves, are stunning examples of modern fortification: layer after layer of blast wall, ring-fenced by towers and gunners, and very interesting “duck and cover” structures. I was completely dumb struck by the sheer level of the American military apparatus. Never have I seen so many walls, check points, watchtowers.

My accommodation is basically a lorry container. I have electricity, bed, air conditioning, and a desk with an Internet connection. Electricity, I am told is temporary, but we have generators. Water is the main problem. The security companies compound (which I asked to stay in) use Hesco defenses. I have not gotten any sense at all of Baghdad; one feels completely cut off from it, the idea of being in a bubble is completely true.

The sheer scale of the American military machine is something extraordinary to witness, and especially now, because it is easing and will soon dissolve, or at least one hopes.

The helicopters remind me of my youth in Belfast, constantly there, humming, always in two's, and flying low. Apparently it increases at night.